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Chumporn Bay |
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Chumpon Paknam, a major east coast fishing port, is not a tourist destination, although some of the offshore islands offer good snorkelling and diving.
There are several fishing boat repair yards where haul-outs can be arranged for a reasonable price.
Good hardware shops are available and, on the main highway going towards Bangkok, you can find the only company in the country that has a dynamic balancer for propellers.
Most of the islands have day anchorages on the lee side in 10-15 metres in either season. The caves and cavities on these small islands are home to thousands of the swallows which make those highly prized nests that are collected for birds’ nest soup. |
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The best approach is from the southeast, inshore of Koh Samet.
Anchor in 4-5 metres on a muddy bottom, clear of the traffic at the harbour entrance.
Unless you are going to the yard, mooring inside this busy port is inadvisable. |
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The lighthouse on Koh Mattaphon has several red sectors marking the entrance, but it is always advisable to follow a local boat in the channel in daylight.
The harbour has all the amenities you would expect of a local fishing port, but better provisioning is found at the main town, which is 20 km from the harbour. |
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Chumporn to the Chao Phraya River |
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Chumporn to the head of the Gulf
North of Chumporn there are a few small fishing ports, but nothing of much interest to cruising yachts.
The famous resort town of Hua Hin, where the main railway between Bangkok and Singapore runs parallel to the coast, has a royal palace and some excellent resorts. |
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It is a favourite weekend destination from Bangkok. However there are no real anchoring possibilities other than off the open beach in the right conditions
Bangkok & the Chao Phraya River
The mouth of the river
Pak Nam, or the “Mouth of the Water”, is the name given to the area from the Samut Prakan to the sea.
The channel starts 6 miles south of the mouth of the river leading up to Pak Nam, and is clearly marked by 40 green and red buoys. The channel is 7 metres deep and is commonly used by ocean-going cargo ships as well as by smaller local boats and barges. Currents are slight, with a maximum 3.5 knot southerly current with ebbing tides.
A network of Klongs (canals) links the rivers and waterways of Pak Nam. Longtail and express boats are available to take you to Bangkok (1 hour) or to Samut Sakorn, 30 km west on the River Tha Chin. The klongs can be explored by dinghy, but beware of floating plastic bags and obstacles. Bring a spare pin for your outboard motor propeller. |
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Samut Prakan is a port of entry for Thailand. The anchorage for customs and immigration lies west of the northern point of Peesua Samut Island. You can tie your dinghy up to any of the several small jetties.
A typical Thai Town, Samut Prakan has a busy central market where basic food and supplies and mechanical shops are available (and where only Thai is spoken).
Bangkok is 25 km, or a half-hour away by road, traffic permitting. Fuel is available from several jetties situated on the east side of the river. Water and fuel are available at three jetties on the west bank, north of the entrance of Khlong Samphasamit, and near Khlong Tari east of Buoy #34. Though the chart indicates very shallow banks, sea-going tug boats and fishermen refuel here.
The ITAL-THAI marine shipyard on the east bank, south of buoy #34 offers services, which include a floating dry-dock for large cargo ships. Mechanical repairs are available for yachts. (Tel: +66 2 387 1059 Fax: +66 2 387 1063) |
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Bangkok |
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From Samut Prakan to Bangkok (30 nm), the river is wide and from 7-15 metres deep. Tidal currents run at up to 2 knots. No hazards threaten, apart from floating plastic bags and large floating islands of water hyacinths.
Several jetties along both sides offer fuel and water. Beware of submerged piles around the jetties. Manoeuvre with caution. Khlong Toey, Bangkok’s commercial harbour along the banks of the river, has no facilities for yachts or small ships.
The first bridge, Rama IX Bridge (Saphan Phra Ram 9), is high enough for cargo ships. The second, the Bangkok Bridge (Saphan Krungthep), is about five metres and used to open for shipping until another fixed bridge was built beside it.
These bridges are the last negotioable by boats with air clearance greater than four metres.
Two shipyards are available for small ship repairs: Banglampoo Lang Shipyard (slipway, tel: +66 2 437 7235, 437 5593), and the Wang Chao Shipyard (floating dry dock, tel: +66 2 291 5881). |
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Tridhos City Marina has marina and dry dock facilities for yachts up to 36 ft. (tel: +66 2 438-1123, fax: +66 2 438 6966).
The best area to moor a motor yacht, while visiting Bangkok, is on the west bank between the Bangkok and Sathorn (Taksin) bridges. Some of Bangkok’s most famous landmarks are right on the river.
Between Sathorn and Krung Thon bridges, for example, you’ll find the Grand Palace, the Temple of Dawn, the Royal Barge Museum, the Oriental Hotel, Shangri-la Hotel and more.
An exploration of the canal network, mostly on the Thonburi (west) side of the river, makes an especially memorable excursion. Longtail boats, rented by the hour, can be chartered at the jetties around the big hotels.
Allow at least 2-3 hours for a wide-ranging tour. Be prepared to bargain. And if you don’t want to be dropped off at tourist souvenir shops, tell the boat driver in advance. |
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The Central Plain |
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Ayutthaya, the capital of Siam’s ancient Kingdom, is one of the most fascinating archaeological sites in Thailand. Going upriver is an unforgettable experience.
The broad Chao Phraya is deep and easily navigable, its banks mostly clear. Traditional houses on stilts house people pursuing a lifestyle little changed over the centuries.
Most Buddhist temples are happy to welcome a visiting yacht for the night. Indeed, you’re likely to become the chief attraction of the local village.
Water is readily available, and basic Thai food can be found in the markets of Pathum Thani, Bang Pa-In and Ayutthaya.
Above Ayutthaya, the Chao Phraya River is no longer subject to tidal currents, and is purely fresh water.
The river is regulated by the dam at Chai Nat, some 120 km upstream; the 2-3 knot current allows for pleasant navigation. |
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Giant shade trees, sounds of gongs from fantastic temples appearing every 500 metres or so, houses on stilts with small wooden jetties from which children swim in the river, little wooden sampans selling bananas – it’s a trip back in time.
The city of Ang Thong is the most convenient for food supplies, but provisions are also available from the markets of Singburi and Inburi.
From Inburi to Chai Nat Dam, the banks are steep. Watch out for sandbanks, especially in the dry season (March to May). A good navigation aid in the form of a series of black buoys is available.
Avoid leaving the channel, not more than 3 metres deep at some points. The temples along this stretch are inaccessible, since the river is 5 to 6 metres below its natural banking, and no overnight stop is possible.
The lock to the Chai Nat Dam is on the east bank, and makes a potential stop for the night. Chai Nat town is some 3 km farther along. Local taxis and small restaurants are available at the dam. |
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