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This chapter deals with all the islands north of Phuket and south of the Burmese border. The two main island groups are The Similan Islands, approximately 50 miles northwest of Patong and The Surin Islands, a further 50 miles north.
These groups of islands offer a beautiful contrast to the towering limestone monoliths of the Phang Nga Krabi region. |
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The huge granite boulders that form the Similans are clear evidence of an entirely different geological process to that which left us with Phang Nga Bay.
Smooth, weather-worn rocks the size of cars and houses tumble down the islands’ shorelines looking like some ancient giant’s left-behind marbles.
Continuing their interesting formations to the seafloor, these rocks create a wondrous underwater world that helps support a sizeable liveaboard diving industry. |
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Water clarity here is legendary, and the coral reefs are considered the most colourful and diverse in Thailand.
These offshore islands are therefore the first destination on the way to the Burmese dive sites and are constantly busy with liveaboard vessels during the high season. |
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Click links below to go to anchorages |
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Similan Islands |
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This group of rocks and islands, lying 34 miles west of Thap Lamu and 60 miles northwest of Patong, was declared a marine National Park in 1982. Consequently it remains today largely undeveloped.
The name is derived from the Malay ‘sembilan’, meaning ‘nine’, and refers to the nine main islands in the group. |
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The islands are commonly named from 1 to 9, running south to north; Koh Similan itself, for example, is #8. Each also has a name, as we show on the charts, though even local fishermen might not recognise them. There are National Park ranger stations on islands #4 and #8.
The waters surrounding the Similans are teeming with tropical fish, colourful coral, and offer exceptional underwater visibility at most times of the year. The diving is certainly the best in Thailand, and compares favourably with some of the best in the world. The Similans, along with the islands and rocks to the north, are now a recognised feature on the world diving map, and are particularly noted for the regularity with which divers meet Whale Sharks and Mantas.
The submarine topography is especially interesting, due in part to huge granite boulders which not only litter the shorelines, but also lie in jumbled heaps beneath the waves to a depth of 35 metres and beyond. On the surface the boulders, together with the lush forest and silica white sand beaches, provide a peaceful refuge from the crowded beaches of Patong.
During the high season from November to April one can expect to find up to 30 dive boats seeking shelter in the bay at Koh Similan, and the mooring buoys are very difficult to obtain.
The continental drop-off is only a few kilometres west of the Similans. This attracts the occasional game fishing boat to venture out from Phuket, invariably seeking the legendary huge Black Marlin reputed to pass there.
The entire group is patrolled by National Park launches; officers collect 200 Baht per vessel and another 200 Baht for each passenger per day. |
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All commercial operators are required to purchase vouchers in advance for vessels and passengers, then report to National Park HQ at Koh Miang upon arrival to have them verified. This is currently not applied to independent yachts but may change in the future as Thailand becomes more eco-conscious of this tremendous tourist asset in the Andaman Sea.
The rangers also check to ensure that no one is trolling, bottom fishing or spear fishing within a 5-mile limit of the islands. Hefty fines are levied for offenders.
Basic accommodation is available at the HQ. For reservations, phone the Phang Nga Office (+66 0 76 959045 or +66 0 76 421365)
Cruising to and among the Similans is not recommended during the southwest monsoon season, due to heavy swells and squalls together with a scarcity of protected overnight anchorages.
The lighthouse on the main Similan Island is reliable and clearly visible for up to 15 miles when making an overnight passage to the islands. |
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Koh Similan |
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The bay on the northwest side of Koh Similan (Island #8) is the best protected overnight stop in the group. Inside the bay, on the 8-12 metres sand and coral outcrop shelf, the government has installed moorings for general use.
Other moorings laid by dive shop operators can be used if vacant. However, dive boats often return in the late afternoon to use the moorings. If all moorings are taken, anchorage is only possible on the outer edge of the bay in 15-30 metres.
The bay has a beautiful white sand beach and interesting forest walks. The climb to the top of the distinctive rock formation overlooking the north end of the beach is worthwhile. There is easy access from the beach or the boat to excellent snorkelling and diving around the rocks on the north side of the bay. |
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Dive operators invariably refill their tanks in the late afternoon or early evening. If you want to avoid the noise of the compressors, anchor away from this crowd – that probably means you’ll have to move deeper.
In the high season there are numerous ferries that arrive daily before midday and depart for Phuket during the mid afternoon. This is helpful for yachts needing crew changes or pick ups, or needing to return to Phuket in the case of emergency. |
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Koh Bon
Approximately 15 miles northeast of Koh Similan is Koh Bon. Surrounded by very deep water, anchoring is not possible.
On the southwest side, shelter can be found from the strong winds without dropping the pick. There is a cave that runs right through the island. Koh Bon is great spot for a swim to cool off. |
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Koh Miang |
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Anchorage is in 12 metres, as the sandy bottom starts to fall away to deeper water. Completely open as it is to the northeast, it is not a good overnight anchorage when the monsoon is strong or unpredictable.
Beautiful white sand backs fringing coral gardens which extend some 200 metres off the beach. In the trees behind, the national park headquarters for the Similan Islands offers some basic bungalows, tent camping grounds and a small restaurant.
There is great snorkelling and shallow diving on the east and west sides of the bay. Ashore you’ll find easy trails for forest walks. The trees that overhang the beach here, including the ‘poison fish tree’, named for the effect its seeds have on fish when ground-up, are attractive and noteworthy. |
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A better anchorage – one sheltered from both the northeast and the southwest – is found between Koh Miang and the small islets to the east in about 10-15 metres on a sandy bottom. Though a strong current runs through the channel, the holding is good.
Closer to the beach on Koh Miang anchorage can be found in 8-10 metres on a sandy bottom.
Access either to the park headquarters beach or to a smaller beach opposite is easy by dinghy. There is a trail from the smaller beach to the park headquarters.
Excellent snorkelling and diving is to be had around the small islet and among the coral heads which appear indigo against the intense blue-green of the deep, clear water. |
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Koh Phra Thong |
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| The most northerly coastal anchorage before Ranong on the Burmese border is Koh Phra Thong, (Golden Buddha Island) approximately 30 miles east of Koh Tachai and the same distance southeast of the Surin Islands. |
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This is an all-weather anchorage lying inside an inland waterway protected from the sea by Koh Ra. Entrance from the north is easy, with deep water close to Koh Ra; the southern channel must be navigated with care, especially near the small rock mid-channel, passing to the south of the obstruction.
Anchor in 6-10 metres on a muddy bottom just east of the non-navigable channel between Koh Phra Thong and Koh Ra.
About half a mile from the anchorage look for a village with a jetty that which dries at low tide. |
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| The west coast of Koh Ra has several small beaches with good snorkelling and swimming, and it provides safe anchorage in the northeast season. Approach from the west until encountering depths of 4-8 metres, and then anchor on a sandy bottom. |
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The Surin Islands |
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This marine national park is the Thai island group closest to Burmese waters. The Surins are uninhabited but for a few park rangers and the Singh (or Lion) Tribe of Chao Lay (Sea Gypsies), who have a settlement on Koh Surin Tai.
These nomadic sea people continue in this modern age a very primitive way of life.
Time, for example, appears to be a vague concept as none of them knows their own age nor can count beyond the digits on his fingers.
On the other hand they are very skilful in their own ways, able to hue an ocean going boat using only the most basic tools, catch fish by hand, and are famous for their talents as deep divers without the benefit of scuba tanks.
On the 15th night of the third lunar month, they perform a religious ceremony similar to Thailand's Loi Krathong, a propitiation ceremony, when small models |
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of the larger Chao Lay craft are set adrift on the waves.
For cruising yachts these islands represent a much calmer environment than the Similans, as considerably less commercial diving boats frequent the anchorages. Visiting vessels are subject to the same charges and regulations as in the Similans.
The Surins consist of two main islands with off-lying islets and rocks. Pretty coral and clear waters are of Similan standards, though the fish life is not as abundant.
The shallow channel between the two principal islands (about 2 metres at high tide) has one of the most remarkable panoplies of coral reef to be found anywhere.
National Park HQ is on Koh Surin Nua and has basic accommodation at a modest price. |
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The contact for reservations is either the visitors centre (+66 0 7649 1378); information about weather conditions and current numbers of visitors can sometimes be obtained from the park office on the island by calling +66 0 7641 9028-9. Phone service to these isolated islands is, however, problematic.
Opposite the National Parks office is a wooden effigy carved to look like a Red Indian, suggesting to the uninitiated that these islands are sacred to the Chao Lay.
South of Koh Surin Tai, between two rocks, is a tidal anomaly, that can create a dangerous standing wave with ground swell from the west and wind from the northeast.
The light on Koh Chi is reliable. Remember: only a few miles north is the Burmese border, and permission is required in advance before entering these waters. |
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Richelieu Rock
Located approximately 10 miles east of Koh Surin Tai is this famous pinnacle rock rising from a depth of 40 metres is a spectacular dive site. (GPS 9, 21.9 N 98, 1.25 E). The largest fish in the world, the whale sharks, are often spotted here in March and April. Anchorage is not possible, but dive boat mooring buoys may be vacant if you’re lucky. |
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| Anchor on sand in 15-20 metres on the edge of the fringing reef. The bottom rises sharply from depths of more than 25 metres, and the anchorage should not be approached without care and a good lookout. There is good snorkelling off a fine beach backed by lush vegetation. |
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This anchorage, lying between the two islands on the northwestern side, provides a good overnight haven in the northeast season.
Anchor in 18 metres well out in the bay, avoiding coral on a sandy bottom. There are a few large moorings and a number of yacht moorings available to visitors at a small charge.
In the north of the bay, the park headquarters on Koh Surin Nua boasts a restaurant, showers and toilets and some bungalows. |
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South of the bay, on Koh Surin Tai, a sandy spit with a spring at its northern end is accessible at high tide. The channel between the two islands is not navigable.
There is a daily ferry from Thap Lamu. The bay immediately north of the channel also has moorings but is not as convenient for the national park HQ. |
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| This small secluded bay offers good protection in the northeast in 12-15 metres. |
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| This is a great spot in heavy north easterlies. Approach the shore very carefully and anchor in 10-15 metres. |
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Koh Tachai & Ranong |
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Situated halfway between the Similan and the Surin Islands, this island is far too exposed to be a good overnight anchorage. It is often used, however, as a daytime stop with very good diving and snorkelling, and a reputation for abundant manta rays and whale sharks.
Anchor on sand in 15 metres just north of the eastern point and slightly south of the reef which extends from the beach on the west coast. |
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Approaching Ranong, the main channel starts at Koh Kom Light (9° 52.550 N, 98° 26.800 E) and is deep and well buoyed. It narrows to half a mile just past the Koh Son Lighthouse.
The distance to Ranong wharfs from Koh Kom is 11 miles.
Anchor on a muddy bottom off the town, but away from the numerous jetties which are constantly busy. |
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