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The Phi Phi Islands lie approximately 18 miles south of Krabi. The largest and most developed being Phi Phi Don. If you plan to spend several days here, Ton Sai Bay is the most convenient for shopping or transport back to Phuket, Krabi or neighbouring islands.
Now well established as southern Thailand’s most popular destination, the islands are encircled by water so clear you can almost see the seabed from the surface.
The main island of Phi Phi Don is geologically two islands joined together by a sand spit just above sea level, with a large expanse of fringing reef in the northern bay. |
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Despite the roughly north-south orientation of the islands, the 2004 Boxing Day Tsunami wave wrapped around the western cliff-faces to flood both the north and south bays of the low isthmus, causing incredible damage and great numbers of fatalities.
Although the village has very quickly been rebuilt, the Thai government appears to be taking the opportunity to zone the redevelopment in such a way as to minimize the future impact of tourism on the environment.
What was previously the main hotel in the centre of the isthmus has yet to reopen for this reason. |
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| The honeycombed cliff-faces rising from crystal clear waters, together with the laid-back ambiance, will always attract many visitors from the neighbouring tourist hubs of Phuket, Krabi and Phang Nga provinces. |
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North Phi Phi Don |
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Although it is not the most picturesque bay on Phi Phi, this spot is a handy anchorage in the northeast monsoon season for those arriving late from Krabi. Anchor in 10 metres on the sandy bottom well offshore. Take care not to enter too far into the bay, as it is closed by shallow coral.
Just south of the west headland of this bay is Ao Nui which offers a sheltered anchorage for a single yacht in calm conditions. |
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In the southwest monsoon good anchorage is available in 8 - 10 metres offshore from the Holiday Inn Resort. In the northeast season anchor on the sheltered west coast.
The resort is an environmentally friendly, award-winning hotel of international standard. With attractive, comfortable bungalows this is one of Phi Phi’s quality resorts. |
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| The beach is fringed with coral reefs, and about 200 metres of tidal flats dry out at spring low tides. Longtail boats are always available for the trip to Ton Sai village. |
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Look for good holding in 15 metres on a sandy bottom offshore from the Phi Phi Village Resort.
This is an attractive bungalow-style hotel with all the amenities. The hotel is particularly quiet, being the only development on this beach.
The anchorage has similar characteristics to that of the Holiday Inn, although it is necessary to anchor further offshore. At low tide the bay dries out leaving a couple of hundred metres of exposed sand.
Again, longtails are available at high tide for the 30-minute trip around to Ton Sai bay. |
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South Phi Phi Don |
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Ton Sai Bay is secure in both seasons. The yacht anchorage is at the head of the bay, on the west side, avoiding the regular longtail boat and ferry traffic heading for the jetty on the east side of the bay. Do not attempt to approach the jetty if you value your topsides.
Entering the bay, it’s wise to keep to the west since the water is deep and the coral clearly visible. The drying rock shown on the Admiralty and Thai charts as lying just to the east of the southwest headland forming the bay does not exist.
It is now a shallow patch approximately 4 metres deep at extreme low tide, which offers no danger to vessels of normal draft.
The best anchorage is on sand in about 10 - 12 metres, close enough to the fringing reef to be able to swim from the boat. |
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The rebuilt village is at the east end of the narrow sand isthmus connecting the two lobes of Phi Phi Don. Bungalows and restaurants extend along the northeastern side of the bay almost to the headland. Almost anything the visiting yachtie might need is there.
Said to be one of the three most beautiful islands in the world, Phi Phi Don is not as idyllic as it once was.
The recent commercial development and the huge numbers of day trippers tend to make the island a little crowded between the hours of 10:00 am and 3:00 pm. Still, it is a very pleasant place to spend a few days with a boat.
Dive schools operate from the beach, and there are lots of opportunities for excursions in longtail boats to the most spectacular hongs and inlets, which are found on both islands. Ton Sai bay is where you will find night life ashore. |
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Just west of Lohdalum Bay is a smaller jungle-fringed bay with an anchorage outside the seaward edge of the coral in 15 metres. Yongkasem is an ideal overnight stop at any time of the year and should be used in preference to Lohdalum Bay, where numerous coral heads rise in a boat’s length from 20 metres or more to dangerously shallow depths.
At the back of the beach, lush foliage provides shade for picnics, and home to a large tribe of Crab-eating macaques. The snorkelling is great.
Lohdalum itself has excellent snorkelling and diving easily accessible from Yongkasem by dinghy or from shore. Beware of your timing when visiting the shore from this side; the bay dries for 400 or 500 metres from the beach at low tide. |
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| For a lunchtime dive or beach picnic, anchor in 12 metres close to a small sandy beach fringed with coral and nestled into a deep recess in the cliffs. |
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| In the southwest monsoon season, a reasonable anchorage is available in 11 metres off a sandy beach. Enjoy some nice snorkelling and a restful night without the crowds. |
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Phi Phi Le |
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Maya Bay – the location for the 1999 blockbuster cult film “The Beach” – is a spectacularly scenic lagoon. Surrounded by soaring limestone cliffs, it harbours three sandy beaches.
From a yachting point of view, however, it is only worth being there in late afternoon or early morning, due to the many tourist boats. It is advisable to return to the more secure anchorage in Ton Sai Bay for the night. Still, if you wish to spend the night there in the northeast season, anchor in the mouth of the bay in 15 - 20 metres.
Do not anchor on the coral bank, which has suffered considerable damage in recent years. A large part of the bay is shallow coral, and hundreds of visitors come on day trips to snorkel and see the sights. The reef fish will arrive in shoals when you drop anchor. |
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The Viking Cave is worth a look, but anchoring here is difficult due to the depth. Yachts wishing to drop people off to explore the cave should, in either season, hold off, delivering visitors by dinghy to the small jetty at the entrance. A better bet still is to hire a longtail boat from Tonsai Bay. This is also the preferred means of getting to the spectacular Hong Pileh on the east side, which is inaccessible by yacht.
Day moorings can also be found in Loh Samah Bay with a rock island nestling in the middle of a coral garden on the southern tip of the island. |
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Bamboo Island Group |
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| To the north of Phi Phi Don lie two small islands, Koh Mai Phai (‘Bamboo’) and Koh Yung (‘Mosquito’).
Between them and the northern tip of Phi Phi Don is a large area of submerged and dangerous coral reef called Hin Klang. |
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| Anchor in 7 - 10 metres on a sandy patch off the southeast corner of the island. Take care to drop your anchor in sand. This avoids damaging the coral and at the same time minimizing the chances of fouling your ground tackle. The moorings are very close to the reef edge and are only suitable for speedboats and longtails that make the daily snorkelling pilgrimage from Phi Phi. |
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Anchor in 7 - 10 metres on a sandy patch off the southeast corner of the island. Take care to drop your anchor in sand. This avoids damaging the coral and at the same time minimizing the chances of fouling your ground tackle. The moorings are very close to the reef edge and are only suitable for speedboats and longtails that make the daily snorkelling pilgrimage from Phi Phi.
A small restaurant opens during the day. Beware of your course when heading back to Phi Phi. Go north or south of Hin Klang to avoid the dangerous reef. |
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| The reefs around here are arguably the best diving outside of the Similan Islands. There are no safe overnight anchorages, though some locations can be recommended in either season for lunchtime or diving stopovers. Suitable only in relatively calm weather, your vessel should never be left unattended. |
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| The northwest side of this island has a sandy bank studded with coral outcrops rising from deep water. Approach with care from the west. Locate a sandy patch big enough to swing your anchor in 5 - 10 metres. |
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Koh Kai, Hin Musang & King Cruiser Wreck
On the passage back to Phuket from Phi Phi islands are some of the best dive sites in the region.
4 miles NNE of Koh Kai is Hin Musang, locally known as Shark Point. Home to harmless leopard sharks, spectacular soft corals and moray ells, this dive site is one of the most popular. Moorings are placed around this pinnacle rock and can be used on a first-come basis.
(Shark Point. 7˚, 47.85 N, 98˚, 37.55 E)
Half a mile to the north is Anemone Reef, which is marked by a single mooring buoy. Here again magnificent soft purple corals and abundance of fish life.
One mile east is the wreck of the 85-metre King Cruiser ferry, which came to grief in 1997 after clipping Anemone Reef. The Wreck is now home to many species of fish and has a colourful coating of corals. This is also marked with a single buoy.
Koh Kai was once famous for schools of sailfish, which unfortunately have ended up in many of the local seafood restaurants. Occasional survivors can be hooked between 4pm and sunset but be sure to catch and release.
None of these open sites affords anchorage overnight.
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